SquareMeal Review of
The Back Room at 3 Cromwell Road
Traces of defunct Dorsia peek through at this elegant Kensington townhouse/funhouse from Chelsea party orchestrators Howard Spooner and Dipak Panchal (Mahiki, Dukebox etc). The whole complex takes The Great Gatsby as its theme, but the Back Room bar factors in a sprinkle of jokey pop kitsch,
padded walls and neon slogans for a memorable disco look that could double as a Soho peep-show arcade. Staff sport tweed and flat caps in a tongue-in-cheek nod to aristocratic service of
yesteryear, while the soundtrack segues from Bob Marley to Jerry Lee Lewis, punctuated by live bands. Drinks include the anticipated mix of grand-marque bubbles, numerous cocktails and big-night
sharing bowls – although the results range from rich, minty mojitos to astringent, almost undrinkable gin punch. If you want something to eat in the evening, visit the top-floor Drawing Room for steaks and salads.