SquareMeal Review of
The Admiral Codrington
In a sea of ever-changing gastropubs, the ever-dependable Cod sails on regardless of fashion and fortune. Nestled in its quiet spot on a South Ken backstreet, this atmospheric boozer is an old-school Sloane favourite – its cosy interiors and imposing dark-wood bar means that it attracts a more mature crown than some of the neighbourhood’s haunts. At the back, a light-filled, softly furnished dining room offers a haven from the boozy hubbub, with a tried-and-tested line-up of dishes rarely veering too far off course. Staples such as the chunky slab of cod with sauce vierge and the expertly fashioned burger loaded with Applewood cheese and maple bacon inside a brioche bun are never off the menu. Although we’d like to see the kitchen mix things up a touch, with its jolly service and easily navigable wine list, there’s much to be said for the Cod’s unwavering consistency.
The Admiral Codrington is recommended for