The Harrow at Little Bedwyn 22

Little Bedwyn , near Marlborough, SN8 3JP

2 reviews

68 Modern European Wiltshire

  • Harrow at Little Bedwyn
  • The Harrow exterior
  • Harrow at Little Bedwyn
  • Harrow at Little Bedwyn
  • Harrow at Little Bedwyn
  • Harrow at Little Bedwyn

SquareMeal Review of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

Despite its bucolic name, The Harrow isn’t some timeless local pub, but a full-blown country restaurant in a secluded village on the Kennet and Avon Canal. Serious ambition is confirmed by an array of stars and testimonials from Michelin to Robert Parker, and the interior affirms its classy credentials with muted modern shades, high-backed leather chairs and crisp white linen in the unstuffy dining areas. Chef-patron Roger Jones’s accomplished modern cooking is driven by high-quality seasonal ingredients, with day-boat catches from British waters showing up strongly. Starters are occasionally jazzed up with oriental flavours and ingredients (tempura Pembroke lobster with Asian spices, say), and there are useful by-the-glass suggestions for each course: a Kelmscott ‘pork platter’ with Ben Glaetzer Amon Ra 2009 or a dessert of lemon, yuzu and passion fruit alongside, say, Echeverria Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2012. The full wine list is an oenophile’s delight, with bottles from serious growers around the globe at very fair prices.

Wine List Of The Year Finalist

Michelin-starred chef Roger Jones is a big champion of New World wine, particularly Australia and New Zealand – and his list is a prolonged love letter to the efforts of winemakers Down Under. There are 13 pages of whites (including a mouth-watering selection of Clare Valley Rieslings), and 11 pages of reds (including 12 vintages of Moss Wood Cab and seven vintages of Grange). But this isn’t so much about sheer volume as great names – often with a fair bit of age, and great prices.

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9.5

Food & Drink: 9.5

Service: 9.5

Atmosphere: 8.5

Value: 8.5

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 4.0

Foodess platinum reviewer 11 December 2011

I like Modern British Cooking especially when delivered with a flair and elegance which out-classes the snobbishly French fashion of over-stylised cuisine that perhaps a few too many Brits have adopted in the past. Even better when it is served within the walls of an under-stated country establishment, where you can relax in the company of good friends. We ate carefully spiced and precisely balanced ingredients which had been confidently put together to correlate agreeably. Beetroot amuse bouche had just sufficient spicy heat and cumin fragrance to complement the sweet beet’ puree, which stood up to the topping of smoked eel cream that actually resembled the texture of pate. Breads were perfectly soft and warm. Who would have thought of putting lobster with dahl – I am so glad they did. A risotto had a dense rich woodiness from chestnuts and English, yes English, truffle with a piquancy coming from the cheese. Scallops, my sister-in-law told us, were cooked to perfection and arranged within a neatly colourful pea and chorizo surround. I tried to quell excitement in anticipation of the main event. Delicately steamed turbot sat above chicken and vegetable broth, which only just failed to eclipse the outstanding performance by the Pembrokeshire lobster and spiced creamy lentils. Venison was a triumph cooked exactly to order that brought satisfying smiles to those dining at our table. A pre-dessert was a sensational take on boiled egg with soldiers. I won’t give the game away completely….but it is worth ordering dessert just for this. If you like silky textures and mango, you will love this. Dessert was of course, impeccably produced, and like everything else was assembled to a clean, modern and modest style, where the palate gets the best deal. At the risk of almost never finishing this comment, comfort, atmosphere, service, and wine are quite deserving of mention, but it is obvious where the emphasis is, and should be. Unspeakably good! Need I say, the sort of food that makes me enthuse all the way home. Now for the real test : can they maintain this standard? I, for one, intend to find out.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 4.0

TomTom gold reviewer 12 October 2009

You can tell there’s enormous passion in this restaurant through the constantly changing roster of special menus, the lovingly put-together wine list and the way the staff, particularly Sue (wife of chef Roger Jones), explain every aspect of the menu – from starters to cheese. Well-crafted menus are a celebration of flavour and good (not fanciful) technique. Understated, but in every respect a foodie's haven.

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