SquareMeal Review of
The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
Despite its bucolic name, The Harrow isn’t some timeless local pub, but a full-blown country restaurant in a secluded village on the Kennet and Avon Canal. Serious ambition is confirmed by an array of stars and testimonials from Michelin to Robert Parker, and the interior affirms its classy credentials with muted modern shades, high-backed leather chairs and crisp white linen in the unstuffy dining areas. Chef-patron Roger Jones’s accomplished modern cooking is driven by high-quality seasonal ingredients, with day-boat catches from British waters showing up strongly. Starters are occasionally jazzed up with oriental flavours and ingredients (tempura Pembroke lobster with Asian spices, say), and there are useful by-the-glass suggestions for each course: a Kelmscott ‘pork platter’ with Ben Glaetzer Amon Ra 2009 or a dessert of lemon, yuzu and passion fruit alongside, say, Echeverria Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2012. The full wine list is an oenophile’s delight, with bottles from serious growers around the globe at very fair prices.
Wine List Of The Year Finalist
Michelin-starred chef Roger Jones is a big champion of New World wine, particularly Australia and New Zealand – and his list is a prolonged love letter to the efforts of winemakers Down Under. There are 13 pages of whites (including a mouth-watering selection of Clare Valley Rieslings), and 11 pages of reds (including 12 vintages of Moss Wood Cab and seven vintages of Grange). But this isn’t so much about sheer volume as great names – often with a fair bit of age, and great prices.