Texture 22

Squaremeal Review of Texture ?

Nordic influences now pervade London’s restaurant scene, but Agnar Sverrisson’s Michelin-starred restaurant remains one of the best places in town for a taste of the north. Butter and cream are given a wide berth, but there’s no lack of luxury in the kitchen’s focused and often ingenious approach to high-class ingredients. Seafood really sings – perhaps Norwegian king crab with coconut, ginger, lime leaf and lemongrass, followed by lightly salted Icelandic cod with avocado, brandade, tomatoes and chorizo – while land-based treats range from Lancaster beetroots with Gorgonzola, walnuts and ‘snow’ (a favourite flourish) to Limousin veal with artichokes, runner beans and cherries. Skyr may have hit the mainstream, but here it’s the real deal, served with vanilla, rye bread and blueberries, while white chocolate is ingeniously balanced with dill and cucumber. Sommelier and co-founder Xavier Rousset left in 2015 to open restaurants including Blandford Comptoir, but there’s been no obvious harm to the wine list, which remains a Riesling-fancier’s dream.

Wine List Of The Year Finalist

Texture’s Champagne list opens with the famous Lily Bollinger quote. You know, the ‘drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad’ one. Then, just to remind you that it takes its Champagne seriously, it moves in to a couple of pages that outline its history, production methods and classification system. It’s not just the number of bins available – though 130 was about as many as any list managed – it is the breadth of producers represented. While many lists majored on multiple offerings from grande marques, Texture had no more than six wines from any house. Its 45 producers (listed alphabetically from Agrapart to Vouette et Sorbée) stretch across the entire champagne region, covering every style from extra-brut to off-dry, and oak-aged to blanc de blancs.

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Texture
10

Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar halfstar empty

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Excellent food and wonderful friendly service

by   (3)

Mar 2015

We had the fish tasting menu and it was very good. Good variation between courses and they were more than just a taste. The staff were knowledgeable and very friendly. Some might find it a little off putting because there were a lot of staff and it seemed that there was always someone attending the table. However, all the staff were so pleasant that it added to the evening. The wine made it a very expensive night with limited selections under £60 a bottle it is not a night for the faint-hearted...

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Stephen L.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 5
  • Value: 5

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half

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Textbook

by   platinum reviewer (206)

Feb 2015

Expectations inevitably run high whenever it’s a special evening out, you’re dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant and, you’re opting for the tasting menu – which ought to show the chef’s expertise at its best. Nonetheless, a recent evening out at Texture saw both my dining comrade and I highly satisfied by the overall experience. We had visited the restaurant once previously together just after it had opened and were slightly underwhelmed on that occasion, feeling in particular that the place...

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Gourmand Gunno's rating

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  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 9
  • Value: 8

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar half

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by   gold reviewer (49)

May 2014

Being a spoilt foodie, it is rare that I depart a restaurant nowadays waxing lyrical, but this is possibly the best meal I have had in recent memory. From the starter the petit fours, there were “mmms” and “delicious” muttered all over the table. It is genuinely what I would describe as exquisite. Not a word I apply often. The only downside is that it does feel very “business” and I wonder if it would be relaxed enough for a date or a group of friends. And of course, the prices match the extremely...

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Amy M.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 7
  • Value: 7

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar emptystar empty

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Texture done by the Textbook

by   platinum reviewer (164)

Jul 2013

1 of 2 people found this review helpful

First impressions at Texture were pretty great: friendly and attentive staff at the front bar dished out drinks as we arrived in dribs and drabs and delivered the best popcorn nibbles I've ever had in my life. Then we were shown through to the dining room with its high ceilings and minimalist art beautifully blending tradition with modernity, to our table near the semi-open kitchen. We all agreed on the tasting menu, despite the £79 price tag, to get the full experience, with 2 of us also swallowing...

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BoatLady's rating

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  • Food & Drink: 6
  • Service: 6
  • Atmosphere: 6
  • Value: 4

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty

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Excellence costs

by   bronze reviewer (13)

May 2013

This is an excellent restaurant: food, wine and service are all superb. It is also rather a pleasant environment to be in, one feels exclusively pampered, if I may put it this way. I do not think that I need to carry on: Square Meal write-up is fairly accurate. The only problem is price, most particularly that of wine. My two-course dinner for two, including a bottle of a non-exclusive wine, armagnac and a glass of a dessert wine topped 170 pounds. That is a lot of money in anyone's language…

Mike T.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 9
  • Value: 6

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar emptystar empty

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by   (3)

Jul 2011

2 of 4 people found this review helpful

It could have been because I wasn't wearing my Louboutins, but from the moment I arrived at Texture until I left I felt almost invisible. There was no greeting on arrival and we were left standing at the bar wondering should we wait until shown to a table or take a seat for a pre drinks. We initiated the conversation with the bar man who said we could take a seat where we wanted in the bar. No drink menu on table, we had to get one from the bar. The appearance of pop corn and greasy homemade crisps...

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Deirdre R.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 2
  • Atmosphere: 5
  • Value: 5

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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by   platinum reviewer (152)

Jun 2011

4 of 4 people found this review helpful

Editor's pick When you think of things that have come out of Iceland (Vikings, toxic debt, volcanic ash, Björk) none of them are particularly pleasant. If you were to extend this theme to food, it would be a similar result: the national dish involves putrid shark and they have a penchant for puffin and whale. So why on earth would you want to go to a restaurant that’s USP is that the chef is Icelandic? The answer is that it is really rather good. Actually, scratch that: it is really very good. Very, very good. Texture...

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Richard E.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 9
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 9
  • Value: 9

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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by   platinum reviewer (53)

Apr 2011

I did not know what to expect from Icelandic cuisine. I certainly didn't imagine that a tasting menu created without butter or cream would feature amongst one of the finest meals I have ever enjoyed in London. It was nothing short of sublime. This was death row, last meal material. From the moment the selection of crispbreads arrived, we knew that we were in for a treat – the five course tasting menu covered Pea, Lobster, Quail, Cod and Beef with a thoroughly delicious desert of Rhubarb and Muesli....

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Christopher J.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 10
  • Value: 8

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Texture

34 Portman Street ,London W1H 7BY

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar empty

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by   platinum reviewer (90)

Apr 2010

3 of 3 people found this review helpful

We arrive at Texture and are shown to our table, a cosy little nook which overlooks the rather interesting ‘open’ plating area. Chunky rustic bread, a wafer-thin assortment of deep fried miscellany and an amuse bouche of creamy pea mousse are just some of the treats we begin our meal with. Chef Agnar Sverrisson has arranged for a tasting of the some of the best dishes on the menu and so the coming courses are very much an exciting mystery as yet. The first course of beetroot, goat’s cheese with rocket...

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Sabrina's Passions's rating

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  • Food & Drink: 8
  • Service: 8
  • Atmosphere: 7
  • Value: 7

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  1. Published :

    Hot & Chilli :: Texture, Icelandic Michelin experience in London

    Cold January started with a very stylish lunch. Once again my carriage arrived and swiftly took me to meet Nespresso at Texture, a Michelin-starred restaurant by Chef Agnar Sverrisson and Xavier Rousset. The restaurant is serving modern European fare with strong Scandinavian and Icelandic influences using locally British sourced ingredients.

    The restaurant is beautifully set in a white double fronted house, just off Portman Square, London. Clean lines, aesthetic pleasing, welcoming staff, what else could I ask for? Well, a surprise launch of new Nespresso decaffeinated grand crus...
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  1. Published :

    LUNCHING ABOVE OUR WEIGHT :: Texture: Restaurant Review | Lunching Above Our Weight

    You would be forgiven for believing our lives to be serene, breezing from one lunch to the next in an aura of calm and professional efficiency, but, dear readers, we must reveal that this is merely a carefully-crafted illusion. Had you seen an anxious Chris almost turfed out of Texture while Rachel sprinted to the restaurant, her timekeeping at the mercy of a severely delayed Central Line, you would be convinced of this. Our eventual arrival at the Michelin starred establishment was sweaty, hungry and apologetic. Fortunately the staff at Texture (except perhaps the entrance desk lady who tried to force Chris to have...
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Essential Details for Texture

  • Cuisine: Modern European
  • Area: Marylebone
  • Price: £76.00
  • Wine: £29.00
  • Champagne: £60.00
  • Lunch: £18.50/22 (2/3 courses)
  • Dinner: £60 (7 courses)
  • Private Dining: 16

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