SquareMeal Review of
Tea Room at Bun House
Descend to Bun House’s theatrically louche basement and you’ll discover this well-observed homage to hedonistic Hong Kong dens of yore, courtesy of Sino-American couple Z He and Alex Peffly. Inside, a vintage jukebox plays a soundtrack of 1960s Kowloon divas, while waitresses in cheongsams waft between punters seated at booths or on rattan verandah chairs. Exquisitely presented cocktails are the stock-in-trade here, built on premium Chinese base spirits. To these, head honcho Franky Rodrigues adds a few extra ingredients – syrups, liqueurs, bitters and aromatics made in-house – to form a winning list of 21 original ideas. Highlights include Fenjiu-based sweet and sour sharpener, Coriander & Cucumber; and Cigarette & Palm (a smoky Old Fashioned made with palm syrup, tobacco liqueur and revered Baijiu brand, Moutai). Otherwise, order Chinese beers, teas, plum or rice wines, and snack from Cantonese sharing plates: tea egg brûlée with tea tree nest, perhaps, or oolong-smoked quail.