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This vast dining room is now Tate Modern’s flagship restaurant, on level nine of the twisted, off-kilter pyramid that is the Switch House. Boasting fabulous views (which disappear as you sit down), the stripped-back room is dressed in raw oak and bare concrete, leading to a minimalistic, canteen-style feel. A concise menu of carefully sourced Brit dishes includes line-caught wild sea bass and Swaledale lamb rump. Continuing the theme, our starter of Hampshire’s Chalk Stream trout was delicately assembled on roasted onions, white asparagus and pea purée: the slight bitterness of the asparagus married beautifully with sweet onions and soft flesh. The lamb is the star dish however, with heritage beetroot, celeriac purée and a knock-out white port sauce. For dessert, be sure to try the lemon brûlée tart with a glass of French Muscat. The service is well informed and the à la carte isn’t prohibitively expensive, but certainly comes at a ninth-floor premuim. The pièce de résistance is Hamish Anderson's 100-strong wine list, an oenophile's dream packed with both classic and unusual bottles.
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