SquareMeal Review of
Tandoor Chop House
This small, curious restaurant plants its flag firmly in comfort-food territory, with a short menu of Anglo-Indian combinations designed for mass appeal. The work of Ennismore (the group behind the Hoxton Hotel brand), Tandoor Chop House strikes a casual tone with bare, closely packed tables and an easy-going crowd of young professionals and families – its proximity to Theatreland and Trafalgar Square explains its please-all ethos. The decent-value menu is populated by quirky ideas including fried onion (bhaji) rings and coal-roasted pineapple for dessert, but it's inadequately supported by hit-and-miss cooking: moreish, minced Dexter beef keema naan bread arrives alongside limp, tame ‘gunpowder’ chips; must-order, Amritsari-marinated and charcoal-blackened lamb chops are followed by a badly executed, chai-flavoured crème brûlée. With its brief, Spanish-favouring wine list, range of G&Ts and polite service, this chop house could be a winningly unique option if cooking improves.