SquareMeal Review of
Robust ingredients complement the pared-down decor at the relaxed & refurbished Tabernacle, where the kitchen aims to ‘let the seasons do the work’. Produce arrives twice weekly from the market
in Milan & there’s a good range of rare-breed British meat. The result is a gutsy-sounding, constantly evolving cook’s tour of the Italian regions with the occasional English excursion: kick
off with cured Sicilian tuna loin with shaved fennel & mussel salad or perhaps charred Suffolk pigeon & porcini salad with pumpkin & truffle followed by rare English beef ‘alla
florentine’ with truffle mash & seasonal greens (to share) or perhaps char-grilled Lakeland lamb with caponata & salsa verde. Round off with mint pannacotta, strawberries & balsamic –
& digest for a while before thinking about hitting the basement club’s shiny new dance floor.