SquareMeal Review of
Financed by, and run in partnership with, Edward Weil and Rosie Stimpson (owners of Nightjar and Oriole), Swift sees Bobby Hiddleston and Mia Johansson (a couple with an ardent following built on gigs at the likes of Milk & Honey, Callooh Callay and The Dead Rabbit in Manhattan) crack the West End with this dishy, Cubist-inspired duplex. Previously LAB, a late-Noughties crucible of inventive cocktail-making that launched many of today’s biggest names on the bar scene, Swift is bang on the 2017 zeitgeist: it’s a seminal spot that reflects Londoners’ increasingly sophisticated tastes. In the ground-floor bar, drill down into a grown-up menu that favours ‘swift’ fixes made with lighter spirits while downstairs, in the convivial maple-and-mocha piano lounge below, linger over twisted classics and postmodern sips. These include the likes of the Fourth Gentleman (£11), a satisfyingly smooth stir made with Chivas 12, umeshu and poire berry, and The Prestige (£12), a Clos Martin VSOP Armagnac, pistachio, almond and rose-petal liqueur Sour. Delve into Swift’s impressive, 250-strong whisky library and snack on steak tartare, Welsh rarebit, oysters and choripan (an Argentine-style chorizo sandwich).