Suvlaki

Squaremeal Review of Suvlaki ?

What’s in a name? Well, quite a lot at this address: formerly Greek skewer restaurant 21 Bateman Street. The owners decided to close that establishment and transform the decor, yet leave the menu largely intact and reopen as Suvlaki. The tiny interior couldn’t look more different; it’s now a striking combination of dark-blue walls, concrete Athenian-style pillars, suspended bare light bulbs and ugly graffiti. Extra covers have also been squeezed in – claustrophobics beware. Fortunately, the great food hasn’t changed. Soft pork souvlaki wraps are the highlight, stuffed with charcoal-grilled flesh and drizzled with tangy tzatziki. Baked feta comes foil-wrapped to retain its deliciously piquant juices; oregano-sprinkled chips make a perfectly crisp accompaniment; and the ‘exuberance’ sharing menu is great value, especially for Soho. With pitta bread, wild-boar sausage, wines and beers all imported from Greece, Suvlaki is big on air miles, atmosphere and flavour, but exceedingly small on elbow room.

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Suvlaki
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Suvlaki

21 Bateman Street ,London W1D 3AL

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Nicley grilled, but seriously expensive kebabs (if they have what you want)

by   platinum reviewer (153)

Jan 2016

There’s a wonderful Peter Sellers sketch where, when extolling the virtues of Balham as the gateway to the south, the reporter that Sellers is playing goes into a café. To every request for something on the menu, he’s met with the fact that it’s off: tea, bread, milk, honey – all the staples of a café, it seems, are off. I was reminded of this when first sat at Suvlaki: no lamb mince, pork loin or Greek burger. Considering that lamb and pork kebabs are really what this is about, that...

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Richard E.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar halfstar emptystar empty
  • Food & Drink: 5
  • Service: 7
  • Atmosphere: 6
  • Value: 1

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Essential Details for Suvlaki

  • Cuisine: Greek
  • Area: Soho
  • Price: £31
  • Wine: £22

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