Newly regenerated Ancoats is rapidly becoming a must-visit drinking and dining destination, and Squid Ink is an exciting addition to the scene. The restaurant is owned by chef Anthony Barnes, who produces contemporary food with a southern European accent, served in a stripped-back, light and airy interior. The regularly changing four-course menu comes with a paired wine option at weekends; alternatively, choose the great-value midweek three-course set menu. Dishes are deceptively simple, yet cooking is confident and accomplished. We enjoyed a starter of crisp, salty Serrano ham matched perfectly with creamy feta, fig, bitter rocket purée and Pedro Ximénez sherry-vinegar reduction. Tender pork chop followed, perched atop hazelnut romesco sauce, heirloom carrots and confit barbecued onion. We finished with a light yet rich crema Catalana, buttery shortbread and fresh strawberries. Add the concise, carefully considered wine list and this welcome new arrival looks set to go from strength to strength.