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36 Golborne Road
020 3903 3591
Housed in a converted Victorian pub in the shadows of the Trellick Tower, this second venue from the duo behind hot-ticket 108 Garage brings some much-needed glamour to Golborne Road – no wonder well-heeled locals are already packing the place for its take on Japanese/Peruvian fusion food. The proprietors have certainly done a good job in creating a cool destination, sparing no expense on decor (note the downstairs ceiling) and providing a buzzing soundtrack to keep the vibe upbeat. However, we found the on-trend (if somewhat unoriginal) menu rather hit-and-miss: a moreish heritage tomato and horseradish mascarpone dish stood out among the starters, while a tender piece of sea bass with yuzu koshu rub was the pick of the mains; by contrast, our flavourless soft-shell crab harumaki roll was instantly forgettable, and a Waygu rump needed its accompanying chilli ponzu to bring out the flavour. Drinks-wise, diners can pick from a handful of cocktails and a wine list that (surprisingly) favours the Old World. Beware: lots of small dishes and just six wines below £30 mean that the bill can add up quickly.
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36 Golborne Road
020 3903 3591
Westbourne Park Station 418m
Westbourne Park Tube Station 522m
Portobello Road 648m
Electric Cinema 805m
Tues-Sat 12N-12M Sun 11am-6pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 3
Southam Street sees the transformation of a formerly grotty pub at the non-fashionable end of Notting Hill into a destination venue offering cocktails, food and a members’ club. Based on a recent visit, the owners are definitely doing something right. My comrade and I liked the vibe, but were perhaps less impressed with the food. In the end, this may not matter – the angle Southam Street seems to be going for is perhaps more style than substance. A charitable interpretation would suggest that the cooking standards could be upped – but this still doesn’t change the fact that most locals in nearby Trellick Tower probably won’t ever come here; rather, it felt like a place for those who want to bray a new ‘upcoming’ discovery. The building is split into three: grill, raw bar (sushi-and Saké) and then the private room for members. Our meal was in the former. Chef Chris Denney has been given a reasonably free hand in designing the menu and it seems to take in a combination of on-trend culinary styles. I am sure there is a commercial impetus behind this, but some more focus might have served the restaurant better. My comrade and I kicked off with two ‘snack’ dishes: house pickles and kimchi (fermented cabbage Korean-style) and, black pepper & garlic prawn crackers with a shiso avocado dip. Presentation was excellent – a theme that continued throughout – although if pressed to observe anything novel or stand-out about either dish, I would really struggle. Onto the starters and flashes of brilliance (horseradish mascarpone does work – trust me) were offset by moments of mediocrity (the bao bun of Korean fried chicken was distinctly greasy). A similar story would characterise our mains (an excellent piece of fish, much less impressive meat). Be mindful that the trend for small sharing dishes – onto which Southam Street has unsurprisingly leapt – means that costs can add up, particularly when drinks are factored in. Similarly, we were impressed by the range available on the wine list, but did note that there appeared to be very few value options. I guess Southam Street knows its target market…
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