SquareMeal Review of
Soul Store West
Under new owners, it’s all change at this Kilburn nightspot (formerly Love & Liquor). The beat-up, downtempo decor suggests a dollar-a-drink Brooklyn bar circa 1970, and in tune with this, DJs and live sets (Thur-Sun from 5pm) riff on classic Detroit and Memphis grooves, hip-hop, chunky jazz-funk and pre-Studio 54 disco. Cocktails are largely inspired by black-music legends: Holland-Dozier-Holland (a Madeira and fruit rum fix); Lonely Teardrop (a poítin, sherry and elderflower homage to Jackie Wilson); and, named after Motown’s founder, Gordy, a Gin Sour that (muso pun alert) is big on ‘berries’. Pilsners and wine can be quaffed alongside food from the boys behind Chicago Rib Shack: wings, burgers, pulled pork, chicken in buns and similar Barry White chow. When we called by, the venue was in its infancy, but there are plans to offer continuous service from (late) breakfast-time onwards (check timings) – we heard it through the grapevine.