SquareMeal Review of
Sydney, New York, Hong Kong… Jason Atherton’s restaurant empire now traverses the globe, but you won’t need to travel far to experience his culinary homage to Japan. Although it’s based on a humble booze-fuelled izakaya joint, Sosharu is an expansive, cool, urban space with clever use of blond-wood slats, an open kitchen and space-age loos. Expect an array of small plates, lovely bowls and boards loaded with “incredible food” – the Japanese flavours “really hit the high notes here”, notes one fan. The sashimi is as good as you’ll find anywhere, while temaki rolls such as a salmon with spiced cabbage and tosazu jelly will leave you pining for more. The hibachi grill turns out gloriously seared scallops (served with rice porridge and citrusy soy) as well as Wagyu rib-eye with a zingy price tag, while a ‘classic’ section includes tonkatsu pork. Just add lunchtime bento boxes, “stunning” sakés, a 10-seater ‘inner chef’s table’ called Kisetsu, and the seriously cool 7 Tales bar downstairs. Service is “refreshingly unpretentious”, but “absolutely on point” – an Atherton trademark.