SquareMeal Review of
Sosban & The Old Butcher’s
Occupying an old butcher’s shop (clue’s in the name), Stephen and Bethan Stevens’ idiosyncratic little restaurant creates a cool impression with its original slate slabs and ceramic tiles, offset by heritage colours and contemporary design features. The set-up couldn’t be simpler: he runs the modest kitchen, she handles front of house, there are no menus and opening hours are limited. Nevertheless, Stephen’s food is “thrillingly different” – the kind that wins Michelin stars in unlikely places. Meals are off-the-cuff affairs dictated by the chef’s whims, the market and the seasons, with Anglesey producers making a serious contribution. To start, you might be offered ‘chicken 1,2,3’, a surreal arrangement of curly bread straws speckled with bacon, spiced chicken ‘oysters’, crispy kale leaves and Parmesan, all presented on a log. Other standouts could include celeriac risotto topped with apple and coffee, to venison from Snowdonia with pear purée, charred Brussels sprout ‘petals’, parsnips and smoked yoghurt. All ideas that “explode in the mouth with flavour”. To finish, sweet lollipops might just steal the show.