SquareMeal Review of
Opened in 2011, this younger sibling of long-running Smith’s Ongar operates along similar lines and also receives its due share of plaudits: one reader rates it as his favourite London restaurant, while others praise its “great food and great atmosphere”. Spacious surrounds and exposed brickwork set the tone in the capacious dining room, while floor-to-ceiling windows provide great views of Thames. Supplies of sustainable seafood are prepared on-site by Smith’s resident fishmongers, and the menu is a classic run through the staples of the cuisine – from whole dressed crab or deep-fried calamari with garlic mayo to lobster thermidor, Scottish salmon with hollandaise or grilled Guernsey hake with Arnold Bennett sauce. Plainly cooked fish is always available, and Smith’s caters for meat eaters and veggies too. To drink, there are fish-friendly wines from independent growers or you can try one of the bespoke cocktails.