SquareMeal Review of
Smiths of Smithfield Cannon Street
Brisk and businesslike, Smith’s of Smithfield’s new all-day offshoot faces Cannon Street Station – making it handy for a swift half before braving the 18.50 to Orpington. Communal tables in the prosaic refectory-like room are where to park up for breakfast (served from 7am), lunchtime burgers and salads or, come evening, savoury croquettes with cocktails such as East London Martini, vodka-laced Beer Ice Tea and Rum Falernum. To the rear, a bright blonde 1950s-style diner serves an appetising British and European menu. Start with gin and peppercorn-cured smoked salmon, or pumpkin and sage ravioli with amaretti biscuit butter. Mains include fish of the day, Jerusalem artichoke and ricotta pithivier, as well as Smith’s trademark house-butchered steaks. Follow with after-dinner cocktails such as Patrón XO-based ‘Tiramisu’. Agreeable as it is, to our mind this new branch is put in the shade by its bigger vibier sister a mile to the north.