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This undemanding Brit restaurant at Six Storeys lies above The Lobby Bar and below four more levels, all part of Camm & Hooper’s (also behind SE1’s Tanner & Co) transformation of former gay bar The Edge. A faint whiff of Victoriana informs the fussy decor but, like the Balans chain, it doesn’t particularly enhance or ruin anything. Taken as a safe option for comfort food, it succeeds: we enjoyed sturdy starters of deep-fried macaroni cheese balls and crispy pastry-wrapped cocktail sausages on our visit, followed by a tough rib-eye steak with tremendously well-rendered chips and a hefty, enjoyable bacon-and-cheese burger. The rest of the menu reads like a pub’s greatest hits (beef-cheek cottage pie, fishcakes, herb-roasted chicken), while a limited wine selection offers lesser-known regions. There are undoubtedly more exciting places to eat for the same price in Soho, but if you just want somewhere simple and cosy, The Parlour should tick your boxes.
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