SquareMeal Review of
Greek-inspired landscaped gardens set a formal tone here, although we reckon the mood in Simpsons’ airy conservatory-style dining room is much more casual these days. Occupying a handsome Georgian townhouse in leafy Edgbaston, this Michelin-starred thoroughbred is one of the touchstones for fine dining in the city – with added clout provided by boutique bedrooms and a cookery school (renamed the Eureka Kitchen). Overseen by chef director Luke Tipping, this venue delivers top-drawer modern food with real vision – whether you pick the set lunch or the brilliant tasting menu. Measured, thoughtful technique and a respect for the seasons underpin everything, from a starter of Evesham tomatoes with flamed mackerel, tomato and coriander broth to Brixham cod with smoked eel, onions and monk’s beard or Cornish lamb with potato purée, black garlic, baby leeks and hispi cabbage. To conclude, desserts such as gooseberry soufflé with elderflower ice cream emphasise Simpson’s pedigree. A serious French-accented wine list adds further gravitas, although staff bring some unaffected local charm to proceedings. Simpsons is a big shout for special occasions too.