Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor 22

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Squaremeal Review of Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor ?

The majestic Grosvenor hotel’s hot-shot restaurant is a sight to behold – a luxury-strewn pillared room with a veritable battalion of dutiful waiters primed to deliver “flawless service”. If time seems to stand still amid the antiques and gilded accoutrements, Simon Radley’s Michelin-starred food certainly doesn’t look back, and his willingness to embrace all things new yields a menu with countless rich possibilities: a starter entitled ‘cauliflowers’ involves a pig’s foot and brawn fritter, sweet clam, Alsace butter and flavours of piccalilli; ‘Edge’s rare breed’ brings charred beef sirloin, bresaola, smoked-onion pickles and cracked pepper, while the deliciously named ‘sweetheart’ involves John Dory, sticky oxtail, bone marrow butter, grilled hispi cabbage and almond gazpacho. There’s also fun to be had when it comes to dessert: try the ‘piña colada’ riff involving coconut blancmange with flavours and textures of pineapple or the ‘jammy’ Barolo-infused rigs with almond, blackberry and lemon. However, some things never change – the bread trolley is a thing of wheaten beauty, the wine cellar remains thrillingly well stocked, and intuitive staff know all the right moves.

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Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor
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Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor

The Chester Grosvenor, Eastgate ,Chester CH1 1LT

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar emptystar empty

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Room to modernise and could cook more seasonally

by   platinum reviewer (122)

Jul 2013

Do try Simon Radley as my experience is a one-off and there is little choice in the area. I cannot add much to the previous concise description but that is virtually the extent of the parallel. I am sure that the standard was accurate two and a half years ago, however, I have to depart from the ‘glowing’ tone mostly because the food did not accord closely with summer and execution was not as good as it should be. As we started our holiday heading for L’Enclume in the Lake District we travelled via...

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Foodess's rating

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  • Food & Drink: 6
  • Service: 9
  • Atmosphere: 6
  • Value: 5

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Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor

The Chester Grosvenor, Eastgate ,Chester CH1 1LT

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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by   platinum reviewer (53)

Jan 2011

1 of 1 people found this review helpful

Editor's pick One of the first things that struck me as being unusual about the Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor was the menus. For a formal restaurant in classic 5* hotel which is almost a century and half old I did not expect to see items on the menu headed ‘Pond Life’ (Watercress whip with crayfish tails, garlic snails and frog’s leg bonbon) or ‘Liquid Ravioli’ (Roast Pollock with smoked aubergine, Olive press and vegetable Niçoise). Another unexpected surprise was the presence of a large bread trolley,...

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Christopher J.'s rating

star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full
  • Food & Drink: 9
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 9
  • Value: 8

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Essential Details for Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor

  • Cuisine: French
  • Area: Cheshire
  • Price: £85
  • Wine: £25
  • Champagne: £64
  • Dinner: £75 (3 courses)

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