SquareMeal Review of
Big things are expected of this casual fine diner from rising star Elizabeth Haigh (née Allen), who gave London a preview of Shibui in January 2017, via a residency at Marylebone’s Carousel. Shibui has no direct translation from Japanese, but alludes to the beauty in simplicity, with Allen’s intention being to take less exalted foods and elevate them to a more refined level. That means combining the likes of buttermilk chicken with caviar, on a menu which features plenty of BBQ options and takes inspiration from Europe and Asia. The chef learned her craft under Neil Rankin at Smokehouse in Islington, before earning a Michelin star at Hackney’s Pidgin in 2016 (as Rankin moved on to open Temper). Leaving Pidgin just after the star was awarded, Allen is clearly one to watch.