SquareMeal Review of
Bone Daddies' year-long pop up has gone permanent, with a refurbishment including a new upstairs bar and basement private dining. Housed in a former Italian restaurant, high-energy Shackfuyu makes use of the old pizza oven for mentaiko (marinated fish roe) and USDA beef picanha (a rump cut), while the succinct, keenly priced menu is an addictive pick-and-mix of flavours inspired by current trends: a moreish prawn toast/okonomiyaki (Japanese-style pizza) hybrid; yellowtail sashimi tostadas packed with contrasting textures, and delicious miso-coated roast aubergine. With so many hits, we can forgive the odd dud (disappointing mackerel escabèche) – especially when the sole dessert (springy kinako cake with whipped green tea ice cream) pays sweet dividends. The bar delivers strong cocktails, sakés and mighty sharing goblets of Koshihikari Echigo beer, plus gao bao buns at lunchtime.