SquareMeal Review of
Señor Ceviche Fitzrovia
We love the Soho original of Señor Ceviche – an addictive maelstrom of colour, flavour and sound – and so welcomed the news that a second branch of this highly accessible Peruvian joint was to open in Fitzrovia. And we’re happy to report that the follow-up is just as much fun. The buzzy three-level space (vacated by Ollie Dabbous’s Barnyard) is decked out with foliage and emerald-green tables. Chatty, knowledgeable staff are on-hand to talk you through a menu of sharing plates (we’d recommend three or four each). Dishes are served as soon as they’re ready, which meant we were simultaneously tucking into crisp pork belly glazed with sticky-sweet soy sauce, and a dish of mushroom and sweet-potato gyoza dipped in earthy parsley aïoli. Ceviches, however, take the starring role, blasting the senses with sharp colours and flavours. In the El Clasico, fresh-tasting sea bass is pepped up with a sprinkling of coriander and a strip of plantain, while the Señor Ceviche version throws in octopus with crispy baby squid and a tangy tiger’s milk. We also recommend trying the Charlotte Street special of tender grilled lamb rump, served with purple sweet potato. The purple corn cake dessert was a winner too: accompanied by warm caramel sauce, lucuma ice cream and a smattering of toffee popcorn. A largely gluten-free menu and killer pisco cocktails add to this Señor’s wide-ranging appeal.