SquareMeal Review of
Run by husband-and-wife team Orson and Linda Whitfield (he cooks, she serves), this welcoming bistro will restore your faith in the virtues of hospitality. No complicated concepts here: the menu is guided by a commitment to high-quality ingredients from local suppliers, used in crowd-pleasing modern European dishes. Start with honey-roasted cauliflower and goats’ cheese or fish soup spiked with a punchy almond and tarragon aïoli, before a satisfying plate of gurnard, clams, pancetta and tagliatelle. Prices are a steal (starters around £6 and mains rarely above £15), but even these seem expensive compared to the set lunch (two/three courses for £12/£15). The dining room is small and simple, with fresh flowers on wooden tables; guests are welcomed like old friends (probably because many of them are). Add well-considered wines and fun cocktails made with local spirits and it’s easy to understand why tables fill quickly at the weekend. Booking advisable.