SquareMeal Review of
Searcys Restaurant and Champagne bar One New Change
Searcys’ new-look restaurant at One New Change has taken things down a notch: oysters are out and a relaxed, Italian-kitchen vibe is in. The latest vision is more in line with the shopping-centre location, simplifying things by focusing on meatballs with pasta. The main draw, thankfully, remains decent fizz: from fruity Searcys’ Brut by-the-glass (125ml or 150ml) up to a bank-obliterating 1996 Krug. Given the bright, shabby-chic rustic decor, we can’t imagine many blowing £1,000 on Champagne here, but the food holds widespread appeal: various nibbles and charcuterie, sliders and cheeses followed by meatballs (beef and pork, or beef) or potato gnocchi, with three choices of sauce and egg or durum-wheat pasta. Our trofie pasta, tomato and basil dish was filling and good value at under a tenner – just remember to say if you don’t like it extremely al dente. Classic Italian-leaning cocktails and vermouths are also on hand, adding to the draw of this accessible (and boozy) shopping pit-stop.