SquareMeal Review of
A lot has changed since Lorenzo and Mara Berni launched San Lorenzo back in 1963, but this über-traditional Italian still goes its own way. A favourite of Princess Di and a go-to destination for the Ab Fab crowd, it comprises a sprawl of sunlit, conservatory-style rooms on different levels, done out in alfresco style with vaulted skylights, canvas umbrellas, pot plants and cheeky modern prints. First-timers may think it looks a tad tatty, but deep-pocketed socialites still come here for plates of zucchini al pesto, spaghetti with lobster, grilled tuna with cannellini beans or saltimbocca alla romana – all served by staff from the old school of Italian hospitality. There are some classic desserts too, while Sunday also brings traditional roasts from the carvery. Be warned that prices are painful, especially when you factor in the all-Italian list.