SquareMeal Review of
Drama is required in a vast space, and Sakana provides it. Owned by a group of experienced local restaurateurs including the team behind Red Chilli, this pan-Asian bar and restaurant boasts a 6m Japanese maple in illuminated steel, and an impressive atrium overlooked by a fine-dining gallery restaurant (yet to open) and high-end bar. Downstairs it’s all about the sushi counter, robata grill and teppanyaki hotplates – not to mention seeing and being seen. At weekends this is a busy pre-club venue, though weekday lunches are more sedate. Food is strikingly presented on expensive tableware. The plates are mainly small, so it scarcely matters whether you start with balls (spicy salmon, spiced tuna or fried vegetarian), the ubiquitous hirata steamed buns or very safe sushi (the most exotic ingredient is tobiko). Desserts worth forgoing a cocktail for include an appetising molasses tart with apple miso ice cream.