SquareMeal Review of
A chic new Japanese restaurant, Sakagura (‘saké cellar’) has knowledgeable (Italian) staff to enlighten you about Japan’s national drinks. Over 60 of the country’s finest saké, shochu and umeshu (plum wine) are stocked: available by the glass, carafe or bottle – at up to a sobering £1,000. Creamy-sweet Gekkeikan taru saké (entry level at around £5.50 a glass) works well with assorted sashimi; other bar snacks include fresh velvety tuna tartare, and tender chicken and burdock root skewers. Bland vegetable tempura strikes the only iffy note. The Japanese are also mad for whisky, which features here in Highballs and well-balanced cocktails. At £13, Whisky Risky (Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve, saké, green Chartreuse mint and yuzu bitters) is a gamble worth taking. Saké in a barrel-aged Nippon-style Negroni makes for a lighter take on the original. Japanese craft beers and spontaneous origami demonstrations are further reason to prop up Sakagura’s elegant destination bar.