Sabor: El Asador

Queue-averse diners will find solace (and bookable tables) at El Asador – the third part of Basque chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s “sensational” three-pronged Sabor. One floor up from the fino-fuelled bar and tapas-focused Counter, this rustic dining room tells the traditional story of Spanish country cooking and long family lunches fuelled by copious quantities of Rioja. It looks the part too, with its wrought-iron staircase, tiled kitchen, communal tables and short blackboard menu.

To eat, the Iberian lamb ribs and txuletón gallego (well-cured Galician rib of beef) have their followers, but most come here for the “amazing” Segovian suckling pig (quarter, half or whole), cooked in a Castilian wood oven the time-honoured way, to produce crispy, tanned skin and tender flesh that needs only the slightest touch with a knife to fall off the bone. Simply add some patatas fritas (with espelette pepper or mojo rojo, perhaps) and a perfectly dressed tomato salad.

For a proper feast, start with crispy pig’s ears, paprika-spiked Galician octopus with potatoes or a slice of glossy cuttlefish empanada, its rich filling as black as night. After that, a few spoonfuls of refreshing goat’s-cheese ice cream with a splash of liquorice jus is about all you’ll manage. The Spanish regional wine list is a pleasure to explore, with plenty by the glass from well-known producers, old and new – another highlight of this Iberian high-flyer.

Much-loved Spanish restaurant Sabor brings authentic tapas to Mayfair, led by highly-acclaimed chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho who previously made a name for herself working as executive chef at Barrafina for ten years. Nieves grew up in Bilbao, the largest city within the Basque region of Spain, learning from an early age about the region's produce and cuisine. Spanish-born Jose Etura, meanwhile, is Operations Director at Sabor who co-founded the restaurant with Nieves. Earning itself a Michelin star in 2018, the restaurant is considered one of the best places in the capital to taste and experience Spanish cuisine.  

Sabor is divided into three main areas - on the ground floor is the bar and counter serving tapas – while upstairs, via a spiral staircase, is where you’ll find El Asador, Sabor’s only bookable restaurant area. Communal tables allow groups of guests to enjoy the specialities from Galicia and Castile, while classic details such as Spanish tiles and rustic features create an authentic yet modern setting in which to enjoy its tapas dishes.  

The concise menu comprises starters, tapas, mains and vegetables with dishes including things like prawn croquetas, crisp fried pig’s ears with quince aioli, tortilla Gallega and Morcilla de Burgos & Txistorra (rice black pudding, twistorra and piquillo peppers). One of its most popular and impressive signature dishes, however, is the Segovian suckling pig, which is served quartered, halved or whole and roasted in Sabor’s specially-built wood-fired oven (also known as the ‘asador’). Many of its dishes are cooked in large copper pans brought to London especially from Galicia, including its popular octopus.  

Finally, the drinks list comprises top wines as well as sherry, cava, Spanish gins, cocktails, beers and spirits. El Asador accepts reservations and walk-ins on a first-come-first-served system. Downstairs is the walk-in only Counter, Sabor's Michelin-starred tapas bar, where diners can perch on stools to watch the chefs at work.