SquareMeal Review of
Roux at The Landau
Located in a former ballroom, the grandeur of this Roux outpost certainly makes us do a happy dance (on the inside, of course). Wood panelling, arched windows and lots of swish make it an impressive, grown-up spot for client-wooing, and in common with Le Gavroche, there’s a good-value three-course deal with half a bottle of wine, coffee and petit fours for just under £50. Michel Roux Jr is more likely to be found at his flagship, but head chef Oliver Boon is well-versed in the Roux repertoire and also allowed to stretch its boundaries. To start, we suggest octopus carpaccio with smoked cod’s roe, oregano and potato, followed perhaps by crisp pressed chicken, wet garlic, oyster leaf, mousserons and Grelot onions. Desserts such as toasted oat and raspberry ‘Arctic roll’ with whisky cream show flair, though the wine list is gloriously old school. Readers report really thoughtful, switched-on customer service throughout the hotel for guests who require extra help or attention.