SquareMeal Review of
A co-production between Dock Kitchen
chef Stevie Parle and bar supremo Jonathan Downey, Dalston’s Rotorino boasts some pedigree. Certainly, it’s among Kingsland Road’s more professional venues, but it has an endearingly grungy appeal featuring loud 1970s patterns and wine bottles full of garage-forecourt flowers that wouldn’t look misplaced in a hip student bar. Parle’s River Café background influences an all-Italian menu divided into antipasti, primi and secondi, then subdivided into odd categories of ‘stove’, ‘cured in Highbury’, ‘soup’ etc. It’s gutsy grub, not always as finessed as you might hope, but characterful nonetheless. Dig into rigatoni lunghi with ricotta salata, pig’s head terrine, or a trio of beef, chickpea and rocket bruschette, followed by hanger steak or a family portion of burrida fish stew. The wine list, by Street Vin’s Ruth Spivey, goes big on Italy. “Welcoming and stylish” is one fan’s verdict.
All inclusive Sunday roasts: £15pp
Maximum of 8 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.