SquareMeal Review of
Resident of Paradise Row
The stretch of railway arches on Paradise Row is becoming a hip beacon of fun, and the latest venue to join the party is bar-restaurant Resident, created by folk behind the pop-up Bacchus Sundays. Under a sweeping corrugated roof, the room is dominated by an attractive bar, with wooden tables and chairs dotted around. The menu is a well-edited list of classic gastropub dishes that encourage sharing (available in portions for one, two or four people): not-too-rich Gloucester Old Spot pork belly arrives with crackling and creamy garlic and mustard mash; salmon fillet with creamed leeks is paired with heavenly shrimp and caper brown butter. To finish, our zesty lemon posset with shortbread was delightfully light, despite lacking the promised blueberries. Great Sunday roasts, tasty Old World wines (all served by the glass, from £3.60) and well-made cocktails also make this an appealing residence.