Radici

Squaremeal Review of Radici ?

D&D London (Quaglino’s, German Gymnasium, Angler etc.) is capitalising on its star signing of Francesco Mazzei by persuading the Islington local to re-fashion Almeida as a neighbourhood Italian. Radici is a more down-to-earth proposition than the chef’s Sartoria, more trattoria than ristorante, albeit styled with the habitual D&D elan. With its eye-catching tiled floors and spindly wooden furniture, Radici looks like an interiors spread from a colour supplement, right down to the olive tree-fringed terrace which affords peerless people-watching of the comings and goings of the Almeida theatre opposite. Ingredients are fresh and seasonal – nibble on some sweet-as-can-be grilled peas while you peruse a menu inspired by Mazzei’s southern Italian childhood. Starters impressed the most: meatballs with a deliciously rich depth of flavour, and a soft curl of perfectly cooked octopus tentacle, crisped up at the tip and surrounded by equally well-timed cannellini beans. Pastas were pedestrian in comparison, and mains of mushroom ragu with polenta, and calf’s liver involtino – rolled into a cigar and stuffed with pancetta, garlic and sage – were both too salty to be enjoyable; order instead one of the excellent pizzas, buoyed up on pillowy dough puffed up from the wood-fired oven. The Italian wine list has lots of interest under £40, although staff need more training on the finer points (a request for a glass of sweet wine was met with a suggestion of bone-dry Tio Pepe). We’ve always been big fans of Mazzei  and we’re sure he’ll iron any issues out – not least so he has somewhere to take the family for a feasting-style Sunday lunch.       

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Online Offers ?

Evening Standard: 2 courses for £15 with a glass of wine

2 courses and a glass of wine for £15 & 3 courses and a glass of wine £20, from a set menu.

Available: 31 July 2017

Max: 6 people

Expires: 10 September 2017

Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.

Radici
1

Radici

30 Almeida Street ,London N1 1AD

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All right in a sort of a limited way for an off-night

by   (3)

Apr 2017

Perception of restaurants is very much dependent on expectations. If the expectation of Radici is that it will be like L'Anima or Sartoria or that it will be fine dining or even that it will be the best quality high end ingredients, disappointment will be inevitable. Radici is none of these but that is not to say it is bad for what it is. Radici aims to be a tratorria and it 'sort of' succeeds but not entirely. If informal means noisy, it is certainly informal (to be honest I...

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Conor D.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 6
  • Service: 4
  • Atmosphere: 6
  • Value: 3

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