Radicals and Victuallers

59 Upper Street , London, N1 0NY

SquareMeal Review of Radicals and Victuallers

This late-night DJ lounge channels the sort of Cheers-style bar/diner that is still commonplace in Smalltown, USA. Service is chummy; Brooklyn and Camden head the list of brews; house Sauvignon is serviceable, and the shelves of high-end hooch suggest that there are fine cocktails too. Sadly, our request for a Dry Martini was beyond the bartender’s scope, while Dead Leg yielded a strange brew of spiced rum, Pepsi and Guinness. ‘Home-cooked Americana’ is actually rustled up by Ruby Jean’s Diner, although the chilli dogs, hot wings, ’hippy hummus', sliders and slaw are no great advertisement for a Route 66 culinary road trip. We were also underwhelmed by the gloopy nachos, bland mac ’n’ cheese and ambitiously priced burgers – served “well-done for health and safety reasons” and topped with bizarre combos such as fried egg and peanut butter.

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