SquareMeal Review of
Elegant Quirinale has all the trappings that suited-and-booted Westminster lobbyists and government flunkies appreciate: quiet, discreet service, a “traditional” Italian menu that aims to please without taking centre stage, and a kitchen that always delivers. The comfortable basement dining room has a buzzy feel at lunchtime with light flooding in through a huge skylight, while night-time sees a more relaxed, unhurried atmosphere as the lights are dimmed. The menu is blessedly short, but full of well-presented classics notable for their “excellent flavours”: start with beef carpaccio or smoked tuna with citrus and fennel, before tackling spaghetti with clams and bottarga, veal cutlet Milanese or cod fillet with tomatoes, capers and olives. For dessert, perhaps plump for tiramisu or a chocolate brownie. Champagne and port are essential additions to the otherwise Italian wine list, and a helpful sommelier is on hand to guide customers through its byways.