SquareMeal Review of
As one of the original stars of Birmingham’s resurgent foodie scene, local boy Glyn Purnell’s flagship restaurant knows exactly how to satisfy its customers by offering a series of audacious tasting menus full of kooky but highly convincing ideas. The version entitled ‘Purnell’s journey’ might take you from ‘peach barley, whipped feta, red grape and rosemary’ to a tartlet of white chocolate, raspberry and mint, while ’10 years in the making’ features the likes of ‘1,2,3,4,5... once I caught a fish alive!’ (Orkney scallop, pickled mooli, smoked eel and lumpfish roe) or roast loin of veal with mousseron duxelle, Wye Valley asparagus, yeast extract and sauce albufera. Diners who fancy “a really fun evening” can also book for ‘Brummie tapas’ in Purnell’s ‘living room’, where the line-up runs from monkfish tikka with coriander sauce and dhal to the ‘10/10/10 custard egg surprise’ – so named because it scored perfect marks on the Great British Menu back in 2008. Well-spaced tables and smart, neutral decor suit the business crowd as well as courting couples, while polished staff never fluff their lines.