SquareMeal Review of
Max Renzland’s well-used and well-loved neighbourhood bistro does a grand job of channelling the spirit of a Parisian café without descending into cliché. With its exposed brick walls, charcoal wool upholstery, red metal lights and vintage Editions Rossignol prints, the look is modern yet cosy and genuinely “authentic”. Great-value prix-fixe deals, plats du jour and petit dejeuner options at the weekend will provide everything from eggs mayonnaise and steak-frites to croque monsieur, shakshuka, tartines and pain au raisins. However, the kitchen demonstrates greater originality when it comes to dishes such as sea bass ceviche with avocado, basil and sesame croûtons or braised Vendée rabbit with confit ventreche bacon, asparagus, peas and artichokes, while desserts might venture into the realms of passion fruit pannacotta with mango sorbet and almond sabayon. The French wine list runs from decent vins de maison to more exclusive finds.