SquareMeal Review of
To slake Britain’s seemingly insatiable thirst for Italian bubbles, industrially produced sugary swill is being punted as quality Prosecco. Out to right that wrong is Kristina Issa’s smart 1950s-style lounge at City Hall. Over two-dozen examples of top-grade Prosecco and spumante, from five laudable family owned wineries in the Veneto region, come by the glass, bottle, magnum and jeroboam. Sterling stuff from established producers such as Marchiori, and Rivalta – whose elegant Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Dry is a compelling dry delight – cost much less than entry-level French bubbles elsewhere, while the two organic varieties from relative newcomer Tasi are a steal. Prosecco-informed cocktails include Silver Angel (a vodka, apple peach, passion-fruit Bellini), Dick Bradsell’s 1980s London signature Russian Spring Punch, and Milanese classic, Negroni Sbagliato. Pick at cicchetti (salami, or ricotta with sun-dried tomatoes and pickled artichoke, perhaps) and call-in for Italian coffee, cakes, and filled focaccia, served from mid-morning onwards.