SquareMeal Review of
Princess Victoria Kensington
William IV had just ascended the throne when this hostelry (named after his niece, the future queen) opened in 1830. It is now a tapas and cocktails joint, sibling to The Duke of Kendal, W2. With Moretti arguably the best among the lacklustre draughts, stick to wines and mainstream cocktails: 20th-century throwbacks such as Cosmopolitan, Sex on the Beach and Piña Colada (only £4 11am-7pm Monday to Friday). Much is made of a gin list that includes Brockmans, Hoxton and Bulldog, but £16 for 50ml of Monkey 47 with Fevertree tonic – served in the jolly, jumbly, cramped ground floor – is stiff indeed. Spanish-born owner Susie Pacheco has produced an enticing wine list, including organic Monastrell tinto (£30). Try a glass with tapas such as chorizo croquettes, Galician-style octopus, or egg on sautéed spinach. Alternatively, dig into pub grub (beer-battered cod, rib-eye with chips) in a more formal dining room upstairs.
Princess Victoria Kensington is recommended for