SquareMeal Review of
Launched in 1983, this glossy Chinese round the corner from Selfridges recently changed its name (from Princess Garden) and has had a swanky refit, with plate-glass windows, well-lit white interiors and wooden pillars adding a contemporary feel to the dining room. But despite its impressive appearance, “solidly reliable” Mayfair Garden isn’t as pricey as you might think: superior-quality dim sum is roughly on par with Soho Chinatown, and evening bills aren’t unduly high. Expect “judiciously spiced” renditions of familiar regional fare with the odd twist: crispy seafood rolls and soft-shell crab are faultless starters, Szechuan pork with green beans is a winner and the line-up also extends to steamed lobster with garlic, lemon chicken and ‘ma po’ beancurd. True to the traditional norm, service is “brisk rather than personal” – although staff cope admirably with a cosmopolitan mix of shoppers, American Embassy staff, off-duty suits and Chinese families.