The small but on-the-button Venetian-inspired restaurant group that helped pioneer the capital’s fashion for small-plate casual dining can now tick-off another on-trend box – by going into partnership with Harvey Nichols, in Leeds and London. Describing itself as a bàcaro (a humble eatery serving simple food and young local wines), Polpo resembles an uncomplicated Italian diner. But though the menu might be considered simple in Venice, it still seems excitingly exotic in London. Arrive in a party and choose a number of plates. They’re small enough to warrant nibbling at several – be they marinated baby octopuses; Jerusalem artichoke, pecorino and truffle bruschetta; or lamb osso buco with saffron risotto. For the full experience, sip an Aperol Spritz while you order and a glass of Montepulciano while you eat.