SquareMeal Review of
Pollen Street Social
As the epitome of the modern global chef-restaurateur, Jason Atherton is clearly hitting top form – especially at his Michelin-starred Mayfair flagship. As befits the ‘Social’ tag, this sleek but rather hard-edged room is animated by chattering punters – and there are plenty of them keen to experience Atherton’s magic touch, ably delivered by a supremely skilful team. Dishes look as sharp as the dining room, with a constant flow of earthily clever and “incredibly flavoursome” combos such as raw Orkney scallop with pickled kohlrabi, nashi pear, black olive and jalapeño granita, Cartmel venison loin with Jerusalem artichoke and chocolate or Cumbrian suckling pig with roasted plums, mustard leaf and granola clusters – “fabulous creative food” of the highest order. Seats at the famous dessert bar (still regarded as “an inspired idea”) are highly sought-after, offering up-close encounters with the likes of marmalade cake, pain d’épices and sea buckthorn sorbet – as well as the chefs who make them. Group sommelier Laure Patry’s wine list is also a real treat: “you can go as high as you want in terms of quality and price”, notes one fan. “Simply exquisite in every respect”, concludes another admirer.
Wine List Of The Year
This is not a list that does anything unusual – but it is about as rock solid and professional as you could wish. At 500 bins, it’s not a small list, but nor is it stuffed with wines that won’t sell. And while there might be a few trophy wines for clients with deep pockets, there is no shortage of fairly priced stuff, too. A third of the white Burgundies, for instance, are around £50 or less. Free of fuss, simple to use and error free, it’s a really good example of a no-nonsense list.