SquareMeal Review of
From the owners of Kensington veteran Il Portico, this spritely little sibling boasts all the provenance and quality of its sister site, but with an altogether more informal air. Handsome blue-grey panelling and chairs make for an elegant, understated front of house, while a wood-fired oven flickers from an open kitchen, producing 72-hour proved pizzas that have the tang of individuality in what is a crowded market. Our superbly light margherita, its crisp, chewy base topped with deep, rich passata, was finished with creamy burrata, basil leaves and basil oil. As at Il Portico, effort goes into sourcing the finest ingredients from Emilia Romagna – pasta is made daily with stone-ground flour from the Apennine mountains (our chestnut gnocchi on a Parmesan sauce was terrific), charcuterie arrives from a centuries-old artisan producer, and unfiltered Italian beers join a pithy and patriotic wine list. A great little addition to Kensington.