SquareMeal Review of
Pinch Wine Bar
Originally conceived as a deli by the wonderfully named Veenus Vortex and a couple of foodie chums (including the ex-head chef at Spuntino), this lock-up store has now reinvented itself as ‘Hackney’s smallest wine bar’. Spartan rustic decor suggests the sort of joyful foodie discovery you might stumble upon in a sleepy Italian village in the Veneto, where ‘dangerously drinkable’ Lo Sfuso di Collina is produced to biodynamic principles – note the distinctive red metal flip-top bottle. Its pokey, but Pinch packs a punch with a carefully tailored 10-strong list of European wines by the glass, carafe and bottle, plus Italian aperitifs and beers including Wu Gang Chops the Tree from Pressure Drop. Food-wise, this compact cutie offers peckish tipplers snacks such as potted salmon, oxtail on toast or ciambotta – southern Italy’s rival to ratatouille.