SquareMeal Review of
“Nothing changes, and that’s the point” at this flamboyantly decorated fixture of the local Chinese scene. Consistency is the watchword, and super-efficient service ensures customers get the best of a huge, 300-dish menu. Dim sum is the star at lunchtimes and weekends, when Chinese families and the Regent’s Park crowd roll in for exemplary renditions of, say, crispy lobster dumplings, briny pork croquettes, prawn cheung fun and nourishing congees. Otherwise, the full line-up runs from breaded scallops with mango sauce or shredded smoked chicken to braised duck with mushrooms or quick-fried squid with morning glory in shrimp paste. The cavernous dining room operates in its own little world, complete with carved screens, tassels and flashing illuminated gewgaws – you could get lost, or lose your companions in here. Still, “if you love the place, it’s probably like coming home”.