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1 Kinnerton Street
020 7592 1609
High expectations are matched by high standards at this Michelin-starred outpost of the Gordon Ramsay empire – a thickly carpeted, richly hued room with long skirted tables, sound-baffling furry walls and a huge circular wine store stacked with the titular Ch. Pétrus (and much, much more). Menus come topped and tailed with a panoply of dainty extras intended to supplement and complement “faultless” standouts such as seared curried scallop atop an umami-rich savoury sabayon with braised kombu and bacon, big-flavoured Herdwick lamb with beetroot and black garlic or fillet of Brixham turbot with pickled clams, samphire and lemongrass – all perfectly cooked and “meticulously presented” in the grand Ramsay manner. To finish, don’t miss the seasonal quince tart with poached rhubarb and ginger ice cream or the genius take on Black Forest gateau involving a light kirsch mousse, a dark cherry sorbet and more besides – although the small but interesting cheese selection is also worth a sniff. Those wanting the ultimate Pétrus experience should consider booking the eight-seater chef’s table in front of the kitchen – just brace yourself for a serious bill.
SquareMeal Award - Restaurant Of The Year
Restaurants with Christmas Menus
Best in Knightsbridge
Best Private Rooms: <10
Best Chef’s Tables
SquareMeal 3 Stars
Best French Restaurants in London
From: 01 October 2018
To: 31 October 2018
Look for the "£" icon when booking (offers only available on certain days/times)
1 Kinnerton Street
020 7592 1609
Hyde Park Corner Tube Station 145m
Knightsbridge Tube Station 241m
Harvey Nichols 197m
Available for up to eight guests, the Kitchen Table experience allows guests to dine in the restaurant’s kitchen and see their meals being created first-hand.
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
Petrus serves the type of food that Gordon Ramsay made his name from- modern European, meticulously presented, good-looking dishes. It's clearly from the same stable as the Ramsay flagship, and does broadly similar things, just not quite as well and rather less expensively. Summary over.
Its perhaps ten years since our single previous visit here, curious to see how it would work out without Marcus Wareing and the opulent surroundings of the Berkeley Hotel. The answer then was so-so. Nothing terribly wrong , just that the peaks weren't all that high. It's all still the same story today. We couldn't possibly pick too many holes in the lunch we had yesterday, its just wasn't quite special or memorable.
The set lunch we enjoyed yesterday is listed as five courses - more realistically it's three proper courses and two freebies, which are as good as the courses, just a lot smaller. Indeed I might think the opening small serving of Jerusalem artichoke veloute was at least as good as anything else we ate. For starter we both chose a ravioli of duck egg and celeriac with various tiny additions and a mere smidgeon of a red wine sauce. It was texturally very pleasing- clearly well-cooked . However it wasn't terribly flavoursome. If RHR served this the taste sensation would be rich and even powerful yet every ingredient would be discernible and you'd know why it was there. There needed to be something in this dish to make it taste more, and less muddy. Maybe a lot more than a scanty drizzle of the red wine jus would do it?
The mains- my linguine with wild mushroom , my wife's poussin cooked several ways- were better; but again there seemed to be a reluctance to serve enough of the parmesan veloute( for me) and sauce bourguignonne (for her) to do anything beyond moistening the dish. And again we were left with a feeling that the dishes could have been a lot better had the right emphasis been placed on flavours.
A pre dessert was a pineapple granite with coconut cream. I didn't think the dish worked , my wife enjoyed it. However the real desserts - chocolate tart with lemon ice cream for me, and a citrus delice for my wife were much better and indeed rather good.
We had a bottle of decent Albarino , coffees and a tiny cup of a chocolate fondant or similar in lieu of the petits fours that I'm sure they used to serve . The bill was £150. Not extortionate but we'd rather the food had been a little more exciting and flavoursome. Sorry- it might be another ten years!
Food + drink: 5
Petrus is one of those under rated restaurants – its not somewhere you’d automatically choose to go to, nor is it mentioned in the list of great places in London, but it should be; at least for the food and service.
Let’s start with the negatives.
There is a distinct lack of atmosphere. On a Friday night, just a few days before Christmas, whilst it was pretty much full by 8pm a library would be vibrant in comparison. There is no music and everyone seems to whisper as though afraid to speak up. The curved design of the restaurant – set round a very impressive collection of wine bottles – maybe doesn’t help as you can’t see across the room and there is no view to stimulate conversation (its on a residential street), but honestly I’ve been at more buzzy funerals.
The other negative is the price of drinks – or more specifically bottles of wine. Whilst a restaurant named after a particularly prohibitively expensive red is always going to have a decent list there is little that is affordable. Clearly we weren’t in the market for the bottles that push towards £40,000 (and no that’s not a typo), but even trying to find anything for much under £100 is a task. As it turned out we managed to find a very nice white Santenay for ‘only’ £82 per bottle. However, at least other drinks such as a gin and tonic are far more reasonably priced, and also cheaper than many similar places in the area, but it’s somewhere you’ll leave with quite a high level of sobriety unless you’ve won the lottery.
Having said that I didn’t think – apart from wine – that value for money was too bad. Three courses are £65 per head, and whilst anything like that is a little subjective, given the quality of the food and service and what you’ll pay in other top end places that didn’t seem too unreasonable. In total, with the expensive wine, excellent service, water and another drink each the bill came to around £110 per head.
The service is fantastic. If you were being picky you’d maybe argue there was a slightly long wait between courses, but otherwise it’s so polished as to positively gleam. Everyone is so polite and switched on, nothing is a problem and there aren’t any errors. You wish that all the restaurant staff in London could do their training here as it would make the experience better for dinners everywhere.
But the real stand out is the food. And if that was what got a restaurant its Michelin stars then I don’t know how this hasn’t got more than just one as it’s definitely better than Marcus Wareing.
After some amazing soda bread, both white and brown, served warm with spreadable (why do most places give you butter that you’d need a hacksaw to cut?) salted butter and a pre starter of white onion veloute and some pre-pre starters of tiny bite sized canapés I started properly with lobster and salmon ravioli with creamed leeks in a champagne and chive veloute; simply wonderful starter – lots of flavours, amazing pasta. This was followed by suckling pig belly with pork fillet and apple – my only regret there wasn’t more of it as the flavours were incredible and whilst pork belly is normally fatty and sometime stodgy this was even better than the one they do at L’anima; so light, but with the crispest and thinnest crackling ever. Dessert was banana millefeuille with peanut ice cream; the pastry was incredible and the peanut ice cream light and full of taste.
It’s the best meal I’ve eaten all year and one of the best I’ve ever eaten and I simply couldn’t fault it. And everyone else I went with thought everything – across a variety of choices – was perfect. So has to get top marks.
The key question – would we go back? No hesitation – I’d far rather go here than lots of the other, so called, top end restaurants in London. So if you are looking for somewhere with faultless food and service get yourself along here.
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