Perilla 333

Squaremeal Review of Perilla ?

This corner plot is a rare find: a neighbourhood restaurant in Stoke Newington that actually feels like somewhere you could drop into, get to know the staff, and have your own regular table – but where the food is as exciting and yes, that most awful of buzzwords, ‘directional’ as anything you mind find in… well, somewhere a lot cooler than Green Lanes. Tuesday-Saturday there’s a ridiculously reasonable six-course tasting menu, from which, for £38, you can feast on the signature lamb-butter brushed bread, cuttlefish Bolognese, pot-roast broccoli (served as a whole head, with yoghurt sauce, seaweed and picked cucumber), and chicken with scarlet elf cap mushrooms and a sort of deconstructed crumbed skin that’s more moreish than you realise at the time of eating. Cocktails are excellent and the paired wines with the tasting menu are diverse and well matched – an ace Riesling made up for a pud of blood orange custard with basil leaves and olive oil that was too savoury for our taste. All that, plus beguiling candlelight, effortlessly warm service and Instagramable interiors? Before long, Perilla will be somewhere no one can get into. 

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