SquareMeal Review of
As quaint as its folksy name, Justin and Jurga Sharp’s idiosyncratic eatery occupies what was an old cottage-cum-bakery on a square once known as Pea Porridge Green. You can still see the bread ovens, while exposed brickwork, beams, wood floors and plainly dressed tables enhance the cheery, rustic vibe. The kitchen seeks out top produce for a menu of appealing dishes in the freewheeling modern style: expect lots of adventurous flavours and “seldom-seen ingredients” as Justin “pushes the envelope” and delivers “the most exciting nose-to-tail eating in these parts”. On a typical day, you might find sautéed snails with bone marrow, bacon, flat parsley capers and garlic butter setting the scene for Breckland muntjac loin with butternut squash purée, beetroot, golden raisins and harissa or sea bream fillet with a spiced aubergine and tomato stew, brown shrimps and salsa verde. Elsewhere, dry-aged steaks are grilled ‘over the charcoal fire’, while tarte Tatin is the sell-out dessert. “Exact cooking from Justin, perfect service from Jurga” sums it up – just add terrific home-baked breads, reasonable prices and a cracking selection of natural wines.