SquareMeal Review of
Pall Mall Fine Wine
The Royal Opera Arcade – completed in 1818 and held to be the world’s oldest existing purpose-built shopping centre -– has since 2013 been home to this cute claret-tone indie wine bar and off-licence. The arcade’s venerable architect, John Nash, would doubtless be familiar with many of the bar’s wines (from £5 per glass, £20 a bottle): Burgundy and Bordeaux being as popular now as in Regency times. He wouldn’t, though, have encountered other labels on a list that straddles the globe: Artemis from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, for instance (a keenly priced blackberry, blackcurrant and liquorice Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon) or Ferrous Kooyong (an Aussie Pinot Noir). Nor would Nash be au fait with the current fashion for Prosecco rather than Champagne – both of which appear here. Cheese and charcuterie, wine-tun tables, a piano and a gramophone, knowledgeable staff, and tables in the arcade add to the bar’s considerable appeal.