SquareMeal Review of
Outlaw's Fish Kitchen
Superstar seafood chef Nathan Outlaw’s two-Michelin-starred flagship may garner most of the headlines in photogenic Port Isaac (familiar to fans of TV’s Doc Martin), but it would be a shame to ignore this cut-price, easy-going eatery just a stroll away. ‘The sea and fishermen dictate our daily menu’ says the slogan, and the kitchen obliges with a daily roster of Michelin-starred sharing plates based on the catch from the inshore boats. Come here for smoked haddock brandade with sourdough toast, crispy ling with chilli jam, baked hake with anchovy and tarragon butter or grilled mackerel with aubergine salad and basil dressing – plus blackboard specials such as rosemary- and cheese-crumbed plaice with pickled vegetables and jalapeño mayo. After that, some Cornish cheeses with beer and onion chutney or chocolate fudge brownie with clotted cream, caramel sauce and peanuts should suffice. Cornish beers, cider and around 20 fish-friendly wines offer thirst-quenching satisfaction.